|
| |
|
Maureen and John’s highly personal restaurant
guide |
|
First, our
perspective…….. We love to
try new things, we love olive oil, garlic, herbs and spices. John will eat
everything with gusto, I will eat most things, but can order anything in
confidence, in the certain knowledge that if I don’t ‘like the look of it’
John will swap me.
I keep mentioning tapas. A tapa is a
tiny dish of something tasty served with your drinks. Often, but not always
free, but if not it’s reasonably priced. Tapas are usually on a chilled
cabinet on the bar, and it’s perfectly acceptable to point at what you
fancy. Olives, whitebait, various salads, mussels, fish, bits of pork
casserole, offal such as liver and kidney, marinated cheese, smoked salmon
are all typical offerings. A couple of tapas and a couple of beers are
sometimes all you need for lunch, especially when it’s hot. Great fun is a
‘tapas crawl’ along the seafront in Garrucha, pop into several restaurants,
stand at the bar and order a drink and a tapa. Stay at the bar, it is
regarded as bad form to eat tapas at the dining tables (unless it’s a bar
that only does tapas, like Simone). Eat and drink up and move on to the
next one! Lovely!
The best place for tapas
in Vera Playa is El Balconcito on Hotel Street. The garlic
muchrooms, cooked with a bit of parsley, are fabulous - also the
kidneys if you like offal, the patatas a lo pobre (potatoes cooked
slowly in olive oil with peppers and garlic) the magre (pork stewed
with tomatoes). For the current 'crisis' El Balconcito has a
special offer - a bottle of Estrella and a tapa for 1 euro 30.
The best restaurants for
a tapas crawl in Garrucha are the Rincon del Puerta, where all the
bar area and what was the restaurant area through the bar are now
set up for tapas. Use any of the boat shaped standing tables,
or with bar stools. Our favourites here are Cazon, (little
bits of deep-fried white fish - a member of the shark family)
Costillas (roasted ribs with peppers and onions) the ensalada Rusa (russian
salad, mixed vegetables with mayonnaise, Tortilla (thick Spanish
potato omelette) or just point at the extensive tapas bar.
Move on to the Maison del Pescador, further along the prom, the
bocquerones there are particularly good, also the seafood salad,
then to the Andalucia.
Within easy travelling distance there
are literally hundreds of restaurants of every kind. We can only describe
our experiences and perspective, as chefs change, or just have an ‘off day’,
our experiences might not reflect the norm for any establishment!
2009 - The economic downturn,
in Spain - the crisis.
Many restaurants are struggling - although
people are still coming to Vera Playa, many have less disposable
income, and many local jobs have been lost, so there are some
bargains and special offers to be found. |
|
The Sol y Luna chiringuito
Open all year
with restricted hours in winter
Open again now and hosting
the boules competition on Sundays at 1pm. Unfortunately the prices are
rather expensive - reputed to be good Spanish food but pricey.
Natsun Chiringuito
– also known as ‘Tigger’s’ Open from April to October
Only open for lunch (food till about
4pm, bar serves till about 6pm, earlier if the sun’s not shining) Good
fish, salad, chicken, seafood. Good place to meet some ‘Brit’ company –
usually for sundowners – about 4.30 till Tigger throws you out. Tigger’s is
naturist – if it’s hot you won’t be welcome clothed. If you have had too
much sun put a top on, but fully clothed is a no – no, and no tapas.
Remember to sit on your towel.
Paso Doble
Behind Tiggers, walk past
Tiggers in the direction of the hotel, turn immediately left (past
the sunbed hut, past Natsun pool) and you'll find Paso Doble.
Not so nice a view but more sheltered from the wind and good prices.
Does Menu del dia - also offers tapas - just say tapa? (with a
question in your voice). Many Spanish bars just don't bring Brits
tapas because we're renowned as 'fussy eaters' who won't try
unfamiliar things! Naturist.
Atoda Vela
Open all year, near the entrance of Torremar Natura
Open all day, serves drinks, Nice
atmosphere, big screen football (Spanish La Liga) and good music.
Mayo
2004
Italian style restaurant, ice cream
parlour, usually okay for pizzas, pasta etc etc.
El Fado
Opened again in
summer 2009 as Ice Cream Parlour, closed for the winter.
Wok
Buffet
On the top floor above the Consum
Supermarket, This is a buffet with excellent starters, Peking Duck, then
a chill buffet cabinet with raw meat, fish and veg, you get a plateful of
raw food then queue up for the chef and he will cook your food with a sauce
of your choice. Dessert consists of ice cream, cream caramel (called flan in
Spain) and fruit. Excellent value, some people
really like it, others hate it, as much as you can eat, less than 10 euros.
The 'free wine' to take away at end of meal is
undrinkable!
Hotel
Street
Hotel Street is immediately in front of
the Hotel, and the Pizzeria, Buena Mesa and Benitos are
there. It seems bizarre, but Hotel Street is not naturist.
Although increasingly the bars are 'naturist friendly'
there aren't enough naturists here all year to sustain the businesses.
Just be a bit discrete / modest. If you arrive in a sarong you'll be
fine. Somebody may
challenge you if you arrive unclothed. The quickest way to get there on foot
is to go out of the car park gate, turn right then
turn left between the Parque Veras.
When you get to the road turn right, an easy 5 minute walk.
There is also the
Broadway Bar
( a good late bar with nice atmosphere ) and Frankie’s Bar. Frankie’s is open all year and has English
football, rugby etc.. Landlord and Landlady, Alan and
Shell, are a lovely couple and working hard to make the bar a success.
New for this season is fillet steak and home made chips, fish and chips etc!
El
Balconcita
Next door to Frankie’s bar, an excellent
Madrid Style tapas bar, new in 2006. Owned by Carmen and Steve. Carmen is
a wonderful cook, the traditional Spanish fayre is wonderful. If you like
offal, try the wonderful kidneys in sherry or braised tongue. The leeks,
wrapped in ham and cooked in cheese sauce, the patatas al pobre (poor man’s
potatoes, cooked in olive oil with onions, garlic and green peppers), the
ribs are all as good as you’ll find anywhere. For the less adventurous, the
burger is very good and the home made soup, Tomato, Chicken, Seafood and
Vegetable, every day is superb. Carmen is also offering a
good value Menu del Dia, every lunchtime and evenings too.
Excellent 3 course home made meal. Also, new for
2009, a 'crisis' menu at only 5 euro 99 - salad starter, a single option for
main course and dessert - must be good value.
The Pizzeria has good pizzas with
thin crisp bases, other food is usually okay and there is a good atmosphere
and excellent music. The wine is good and good value.
If you like hot food try the chili oil poured over - not for the faint
hearted.
The Buena Mesa has excellent fish
and steaks (virtually everything is served with chips and salad) Home made
tapas are also served here, but not offered so much at busy times.
Order the Ternera - it's not Veal by our understanding -
in Spain all beef under 18 months old is classed as Veal, so the fillet de
Ternera in actually a fabulous fillet steak. Poco Heche for those who
like it really rare, Medio and it will be English medium rare, Buen cuit for
well done, more English medium. If you like it really well done, when
it comes ask for it to be sliced open (butterflied - they'll understand hand
signals) and cooked again - or order something else! If you're of a
squeamish nature don't order the rabbit cooked on the grill (Conejo a la
Plancha) - it comes whole complete with head - delicious but not for the
faint hearted!
Benitos has some good music.
Renowned for large portions, mostly served with a fried egg and a tuna
salad. Good value for money. Benito and Hector won’t mind at all if you
order one meal and a spare plate. The steamed
mussels are particularly good - one portion and a portion of chips serves 2
easily - if you are into the French Moules & frites. Mussels are
Mejillones - pronounced mehiyones.
The hotel restaurant is not open to non
residents, but we have found the Head Waiter and asked and he’s given us a
table before now. The food is the usual hotel hot buffet, and also an
excellent barbecue area adjacent to the beach.
B2
Walk down to the prom, turn right, the
first bar /restaurant you come to, after about 300 yds. Very Spanish, here
you will find mature beef ‘ Fillet de Buey’ , fabulous. Excellent
restaurant, more expensive but superb quality, also does tapas outside and
at the tables nearest to the bar. Up to May 2009 B2
was doing an excellent value Menu Del Dia, Monday to Thursday.
Thursday there is Gazpacho and Paella on offer as part of Menu Del Dia -
excellent value at just 10 euro. Closed so far in Winter 2009 / 2010
so no Menu del Dia at the moment.
|
|
Garrucha You are falling over fish restaurants on
the prom. Be aware that it is often the Spanish way to ‘graze’ through
several fish dishes. Often the starter and main meal portions are listed
together on the menu. Order prawns, for instance, and you will almost
certainly get a starter portion. At some restaurants the fish is priced by
the kilogram, before it is prepared and cooked. If in any doubt, and
certainly if offered a large raw fish ask “Quanto es?” = How much is it?
If you don’t understand ask the waiter to write it down! It’s too late when
the fish is cooked and eaten. We once ordered a fish that cost 88 Euros and
would have fed 10 people, in fact it did! We brought the remains home in a
goody bag, froze it and had several excellent fish lunches. Note, fish is
usually served with a slice or two of potato, often with alioli and usually
no vegetables. If you need veg order a green salad, but one portion is
probably enough for four people unless you really love your salad!
The Spanish often order several dishes
to share, having each one served individually. You keep your plates and
cutlery and just graze your way through a range of dishes. You order you
selections and say ‘Algo para picar’ – something to share.
Here is our opinion of some of the
restaurants, starting from the Mercadona end….
Meson
Del Mar
At the cheaper end of the range,. The
specials are excellent and good sized portions. we’ve had the Zarzuella
there on a couple of occasions and it’s been excellent. Cad Garrucha (it’s
sort of like a cross between Paella and Fish Stew) is also excellent.
Specials are not served on Saturday nights. Watch how the Spanish eat, they
seem to order many fish dishes and share them, you may not have sufficient
with just one portion of fish ‘a la plancha’ each.
Rincon en Puerta
(On the port, lighthouse on top)
We have eaten here
several times, the food is excellent but it
can be rather expensive. You are charged on weight of the
fish, beware if something is not available and you’re offered an
alternative, it might be very expensive. The tapas here are superb. Many
people just stand in the bar area and eat tapas.
The cazon is excellent, as is the Russian Salad, Patatas Bravas, Ribs - in
fact all the tapas is gorgeous. If you sit outside you will be charged
more for tapas.
El Almejero
(On the port, fish market end)
This restaurant has an excellent
reputation and we have had excellent seafood tapas there, but the only time
we dined there the service was appalling, the food was average and the price
was high. It was a cold, wet February night, and everybody in the
restaurant seemed to be in a bad mood (including us, by the time we left!).
Esquanez
Excellent food, expensive. Good
selection of seafood and shellfish and absolutely excellent tapas
Meson
del Pescador
Wonderful restaurant, fair prices,
excellent tapas. A ‘must’ to be included on the tapas crawl!
Andalucia
Nice food, nice atmosphere, but a bit
pricey.
Casa
Adriana
Lovely restaurant, looks like it’s been
there for ever but it was only built last year. Food is cooked in a wood
burning oven. There is a bar on the Calle Major entrance and a Restaurant on
the Promenade entrance. Excellent tapas (Calle Major side) Typical Spanish
food (expensive) in the restaurant. The Iberican Jamon, 18 Euros for a
ration, is fabulous.
It’s worth mentioning the café bar
Hamburgueseria Simone, really cheap and cheerful, full of locals but
does absolutely excellent tapas – if you want more than a taste order a
ratione. (The tapa is free, the ratione moderately priced) I think that we
paid 3 euro for a beer, a wine and 2 tapas.
Note - this recommendation no longer applies, twice this year we have been
charged 'tourist prices' - at least double the price you would normally
expect to pay - once might have been a mistake, but twice is not acceptable!
Manolo’s
A great tapas bar towards the Mojaccar
end of Garrucha, on an alleyway off the Calle Major (the main street through
Garrucha). Pass the lottery shop, look out for the red tables and chairs up
a hill to your right. Here the tapas are grilled fresh for you, there’s
prawns, hamburgers, calamari, different blackboard every day our particular
favourite is ‘morcilla’, it’s like a little black pudding, filled with
almonds instead of fat, cooked on the counter over a dish of burning
alcohol. Delicious!. Small beer or wine and tapa is 1.50 on the terrace and
1.30 at the bar.
|
| Between
Garrucha and Turre
La Capilla
On the before the Turre turnoff, lovely
atmospheric restaurant set in an old chapel.
Fabulous place for a special celebration. Wonderful Spanish food,
moderately expensive.
Turre
Our favourite
restaurant, the Casa Adelina,
at the top of the hill, on the right. Absolutely superb regional food, but
don’t go if you don’t like olive oil, garlic etc) The service is relaxed
but friendly, don’t go if you’re in a hurry. The atmosphere for Sunday
Lunch is superb, but you’ll need to book in advance, go up a couple of
evenings before, book your table and have a drink and a tapa.
Bar Zambra
Opposite Super Turre – the kidney tapas
are just the best. Also good kebabs, spicy potatoes. A bit transport café
like, but reasonable priced good tapas.
Maison
del Pobre
Turn right opposite Super Turre, the bar
is opposite you, on the left, at the T junction.
Absolutely
fabulous tapas, excellent menu del dia at lunchtime, good prices and good
quality. The home made soups are hearty and
delicious.
|
| El
Marchal Tiny village up in the mountains on the
way to Lubrin, past Los Gallardos
El
Paniajo
Tiny French style restaurant, only 6
tables, run by two English girls, superb food. You need to book.
|
| Lubrin El
Molina
On the hill walking up to the village,
on the left. Excellent tapas, menu del dia. Interestingly, everything
seems to be served with a fried egg. Good value, very tasty.
|
|
Mojacar
Playa
Torre Bahia
(up a little side street behind the Hollywood Bar)
Regional food Good steaks, fish, fish soup, relatively
inexpensive.
El Cabana
Near the end of Mojacar Playa, on the
same block as the Music Musicca Bar. Argentinian Steak bar, barbequed
steaks to die for – but as usual just served with chips.
You’ll need to book
here.
Tito’s
Mojacar Playa, on the sea side, opposite
La Cabana, open air tables overlooking the med. Good food, nice
atmosphere. We had superb roast shoulder of lamb with vegetables, in a
barbecue sauce, with lovely sliced crisp potatoes, probably cooked in Olive
Oil, lovely. Live music is a speciality on early
Friday evenings - often performing is the more talented brother of Peter
Sarsted!
Asador Ayerbe
(before roundabout, near to Juan the Butcher)
Basque style restaurant, try the bacalao
dishes (salt cod). We had salt cod omelette, red peppers stuffed with salt
cod, soft shelled crabs, fillet steaks, all superb.
There are lots of restaurants / bars in
Mojaccar, of all styles, English, Spanish, Chinese, Indian. Bollywood is
said to be the best of the Indian’s.
Media Luna
Half way up the hill towards Mojacar
Pueblo, turn left opposite the carpet shop and follow the little road (that
becomes unmade) until you get to the Media Luna, on the left. Fabulous
terrace, overlooking the med, fabulous Spanish food.
|
| Vera
Vera Hotel
Excellent
food, specialising in regional cooking, bit expensive. Lovely breakfast of tostados con tomate, (toast with a little bowl of chopped tomatoes and olive
oil) freshly squeezed orange and good Spanish coffee for 3 euros 50 cents.
Menu del dia every day, cheaper in the bar than the
restaurant (same menu). They do a dinner dance every Friday night. Every February there is a
gastronomic festival, with top chefs from all over Spain presenting a
different meal at lunchtimes.
Hotel Carmona
Excellent, regional specialities, good
seafood, goat, definitely different. Moderately expensive. Again, fresh
vegetables are not served with main meal. Go for tapas. Arrive at 2pm and
there is always a fresh paella, order a ration and it’s the cheapest and
best way to eat an excellent paella. Lots of other choices in the chillers.
New bars are opening all the time,
there’s one opposite Banco Santander, up a side street, that is excellent.
The Lizzaran, opposite the Convent, down from the town hall, has tapas in a
‘self service’ format, choose what you want, save your cocktail sticks and
pay at the end. Most things are served on a slice of bread.
El
Fogon
In
the El Real Industrial Estate (strange but true) near to the motorway exit
north of Vera, on the way to Antas. This amazing barbeque restaurant serves
a Menu del Dia, lunchtime Monday to Friday, from about 1.30pm. Excellent 3
course meal with wine, coffee, brandy for about 8 Euros 50 cents.
Villaricos
El Mar la Mar
On the main road just before the
Villaricos turn off, overlooking the sea. Good English chef
serving typical menu you would find in decent restaurant in the UK -
with a Spanish influence. The menu is all in English (or
Spanish, of course) and the waiters all speak English
Excellent value Menu del Dia
Monday to Friday lunchtime - up to 7 choices for each of 3 courses
with half a bottle of wine per head.
Playa Azul
In the village on the left
hand side before the square - lovely Spanish restaurant - serving
menu del dia Monday to Friday. The menu del dia menu is not
written down, the waiter will just tell you what's available but
unless your Spanish is excellent you may not fully understand - be
prepared for an excellent adventure - very good food, typical of the
region. With wine, about 10 euro per head. Or splash out and
try the main menu - good sea food etc. |
|
Cabreras, Cortijo Grande
Los
Pastores
Italian style, reasonable, absolutely
fabulous location, ancient, Moorish style building. All English spoken.
One of the best ‘meat’ restaurants we’ve been to.
The Riad Cabrera (Fatima's)
On the road going back down to Mojacar,
super Moroccan restaurant, fabulous lamb tagine, good tapas, the fried
aubergine are wonderful. Here the tapas are not
inexpensive - if 4 people arrive and you order tapas for 4 you will get
several large platters of food - plenty for lunch, served beautifully - a
different experience and definitely worth it! And the surroundings are
to die for! Fatima's is now a very special venue for Civil weddings in
Spain.
|
|
Velez Rubio
Casa Joya
Amazing restaurant and country guest
house in the middle of the country-side, on the way to Velez Rubio, about 1
hour away. Best food we’ve ever had, the proprieter was head chef at
Langhan’s Brasserie. Lovely homely atmosphere, with superb accommodation.
Ask us for details. (you wouldn’t find it otherwise).
www.casa-joya.com
|
|
|
Copyright © Chris Berry 2003 and Alan Butler 2007
|